Two foreign expeditions set out to scale K2 for the first time in winter

ISLAMABAD: Two foreign expeditions have set out to climb K2 – often dubbed the world’s most dangerous peak and also the only peak above 8,000m that has not been scaled in the winter season.

The climbers, who are from Spain, Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Poland, left for the K2 base camp from Askole, the last village in Shagar district of Skardu.

One of the expeditions is led by Alex Txikon of Spain, who with his compatriot Felix Criado and a team of eight Sherpas aims to scale the second-highest mountain on earth for the first time in winter.

In the summer of 2013, Txikon and Criado had tried together but failed to climb the 8,611 metres high K2 due to bad weather. At the end of February 2016, Txikon along with the Italian Simone Moro and Pakistan’s Muhammad Ali “Sadpara” succeeded in ascending Nanga Parbat, creating a world record for climbing the ‘Killer Mountain’ for the first time in winter.

This made K2 the only remaining of the fourteen 8,000m peaks nobody has climbed in winter so far.

“I think it’s an accessible challenge. It’s possible that we’ll reach Camp 4 (at almost 8,000 m),” the 35-year old Txikon was quoted as saying in the Spanish media late last year. “And from there we’ll see how the circumstances are to attack the summit.”

“The fear is there, but it’s not bad. It keeps you alert and active.”

The other team comprises five Russians, four Kazakhs and two Kyrgyz. Vassiliy Pivtsov of Kazakhstan will be the expedition leader.

The 42-year-old Pivtsov has scaled all 14 eight-thousanders. In August 2011, he completed his collection on K2 – along with his compatriot Maxut Zhumayev, the Polish Darek Zaluski and the Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, he reached the summit via the rarely climbed North Pillar route on the Chinese side of the mountain.

Pivtsov’s team is looking to make the first winter ascent of K2 without bottled oxygen.