Italian food historian cooks up debate with unorthodox Carbonara recipe

Italian food historian Luca Cesari has ignited a spirited debate over carbonara pasta sauce, a cherished element of Italian culinary identity.

Cesari faced online criticism after posting an Instagram video presenting what he claimed to be the original 1954 version of carbonara, deviating from the conventional recipe of Italian pecorino cheese and cured pork cheek mixed with eggs.

Instead, Cesari's rendition featured Swiss gruyere cheese, garlic, bacon, and pan-fried eggs. Defending his approach, Cesari explained that he recreated the 1954 carbonara from the 'Cucina Italiana' magazine, emphasising the evolution of the recipe over the decades.

The controversy prompted fellow food historian Alberto Grandi to denounce "gastronationalism" and advocate for reasoned discussions on culinary traditions.

Grandi highlighted that different variations of carbonara, including those with raw ham in the 1950s, have emerged over the years. Cesari, unfazed by the criticism, hinted at future culinary controversies, teasing a video on the traditional Neapolitan pizza from the 1800s with clams.

The clash over carbonara adds to a list of culinary heresies in Italy, reinforcing the cultural significance attached to traditional recipes, such as pasta with ketchup or pineapple on pizza.

Cesari's unconventional take sparks a broader conversation on the evolution of culinary traditions and the role of innovation in shaping Italy's rich gastronomic heritage.