Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan makes history by summiting all 14 eight-thousanders

KARACHI: Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan has made history by becoming the first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks, a feat accomplished by only a few elite climbers globally.

Khan’s latest triumph came on Friday when he scaled Shishapangma, an 8,027-metre peak in Tibet without O2, marking the completion of his 14th "eight-thousander." This remarkable achievement places him in the ranks of the world’s most accomplished high-altitude mountaineers.

Hailing from Hunza, Khan began his 14-peaks journey in 2017 when he successfully summited Nanga Parbat, a notoriously dangerous 8,126-metre peak. This marked the start of his journey to scale all of the world’s highest mountains. Over the years, he has conquered some of the most challenging peaks, including K2 in July 2018 and Lhotse in May 2019, where he became the first Pakistani to summit the 8,516-metre peak.

In July 2019, Khan added Broad Peak to his list of accomplishments, reaching its 8,051-metre summit without the use of supplementary oxygen, a feat that would become a hallmark of his climbs. Later that same year, in September, he scaled Manaslu in Nepal, becoming only the second Pakistani to reach its 8,163-metre summit.

Khan’s determination was unwavering, and in April 2021, he became the first Pakistani to summit Annapurna, one of the deadliest mountains in the world. The following month, he successfully summited Mount Everest, the highest peak on the planet, standing at 8,849 metres.

In July 2021, Khan led an all-Pakistani team to the summit of Gasherbrum II, standing at 8,035 metres, further cementing his reputation as a leader in high-altitude mountaineering. Just a few months later, in October 2021, he became the first Pakistani to summit Dhaulagiri, an 8,167-metre peak.

Khan continued to break barriers in 2022, summiting Kangchenjunga in May and Makalu later that month, becoming the first Pakistani to conquer both of these formidable mountains. In August of the same year, he led another successful expedition to Gasherbrum I, marking his 12th summit of an 8,000-metre peak.

In October 2023, Khan added Cho Oyu to his list of conquests, becoming the first Pakistani to summit the 8,188-metre peak. Finally, with his successful ascent of Shishapangma on Friday (October 4), Khan completed his mission, becoming the first Pakistani to conquer all 14 of the world’s highest peaks.

Khan’s extraordinary achievements, including summiting 11 of these peaks without supplementary oxygen, have brought him national and international recognition. His journey is a testament to his skill, determination, and resilience, making him a true icon in the world of mountaineering.